The process of stress-free bathroom tiling. Before you get started, you’ll need the tools you need here.
- Tile cutter
- Saw the tile
- Grout and adhesive tools
- The level of the soul
- Tile handkerchief
- Tile cutting jug
The most important element of any tiling project is complete planning. It is usually not a good idea to go to the corner with full tiles and start working. Or go beyond that. It can give you a small, ugly line at the top of the wall or floor.
To avoid this hassle, make yourself a gauge stick before you start. Take a 50mm x 12mm softwood length and place a row of tiles. Usually use spacers until the tiles fit properly, then position each tile on the gauge stick.
Before you start laying tiles, you need to make sure the walls are clean, smooth, and dry. The surface should be as flat as possible so you will need to remove any wallpaper and paint on any flaking paint. Make sure you have your gauge stick ready.
The size and shape of your bathroom will determine how you install the walls. Mark the bottom of the bottom row of tiles and nail a thin guide strip to the wall (you can take it off later so you don’t hammer too much). Use the spirit level to make sure it’s perfectly horizontal.
Mark the middle of the wall and use a gauge stick to tile each side. If border tiles measure less than half the width of the tile, keep the rows evenly spaced with half the tiles because the equal borders on each side look better. Use the spirit surface to place the guide strip against the last vertical line and temporarily nail it to the wall.
If you need to tile around something as big and weird as a window, use it as your starting point instead so you get equal tiles around it. Reuse the temporary guide bar to position the rows as needed. Make sure you don’t have tiles behind the window disclosure.
Make sure you are using waterproof tile adhesives for areas that will come in contact with water (mostly in the bathroom)! Most tile adhesives are already sold mixed, but you need to add something to the water yourself. Apply adhesive to the wall so that it covers about one square meter.
Now use the toothpick edge of the spreader to create a horizontal edge in the adhesive. Take the first time and place it at the right angle which is formed by the strips. If the tiles do not fit, place plastic spacers between them so that there is enough space for later results.
Use a damp sponge to remove any excess adhesive from the tile surface for tile sealing. Tile the guide bar until the first rows are complete, making sure each tile is properly horizontal. When you’re done, make sure you let the tiles set before you remove the guide strips.
Cutting border tiles
Once you have completed the important part of the tiles area, it will be necessary to fit the space between the walls adjacent to the border tiles, etc. which will have to be cut as required. To do this, place the border tile face down and along one edge of the wall. Mark where it will be cut, but also make sure the general tile location is taken into account. Use a felt tip pen to mark the face of the tile. Hold the tile cutter against the straight edge, then score the tile face falling in one.
If you have a suitable tile-cutting tool, you can use it to lift tiles. Can use Use If you don’t, you can use wire length in the chipboard panel instead. Just draw a score line on the wire and press on both sides of the tile to get it out.
Tiling around appliances
When laying tiles around a pipe, it is usually best to arrange two semicircular cutting patterns of the two tiles together. If you are unable to do this, instead mark the tip and side edges of the tile in the middle of the pipe that needs to be cut and draw lines away from these points. Pull around where two lines cross using something slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe. To cut the circle you’ll have to cut straight from the center of the circle and then use the tile saw to remove the rest.
If you need to tile against a curved shape, use a piece of thin card and draw a pattern of the exact size of the tile. Cut the slip even a short distance from one corner, and press them against the curve to duplicate the shape, then move the curves to the face of the tile. Cut using a tile saw. Alternatively, some tiling shops sell specialist hole-cutter tools that you can use.
Grout and sealant
Make sure you use waterproof tile grout for bathing and shower areas. The grout usually comes in a pre-mixed paste that is gray, white, or gray, but it is not impossible to find grout in different colors that match the tile of your choice.
You should allow the tile adhesive to harden for at least 24 hours before applying grout with a rubber-driven spreader, and make sure all joints are filled. Use a sponge to remove any excess grout from the tiles and smooth it out with a broken stick. Once the grout has dried, which will take several hours, use a dry cloth to polish the face of the tiles for grout cleaning. It is best to avoid using them for at least a week so that you have time to sort and fix everything.
You should not use grout to seal the space between the shower tray or bathtub and the wall, as this can break and lose the waterproof seal. Instead, use a silicone sealing compound, which you can find in different colors to match your tiles. Trim the end of the sealant nozzle and press the tip into the joint at an angle of 45 degrees. If you are sealing the bath, do not stand in the bath as the joint will lengthen to adjust your body weight. When you’re done, smooth out the scripts with the handle of a wet teaspoon.
Key points on tiling
When you work, add 5% to the total number of tiles you will need to cover the wall. This can damage the tile you need to cut.
Never slide tiles into position. This can put the adhesive aside and weaken its grip.
Check the rows of your tiles regularly with the spirit level. Tiles can go on your adhesive bed, especially heavy. See Grout Expert for all your tiling supplies.
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